It’s been a busy last few weeks, all of which I’ve been away from site. Starting the seventh of January, I was back at Tubaniso for two weeks of technical training. It was great to see other volunteers, many of whom I hadn’t seen in three months. The ride to Bamako was interesting. Ideally, going from Sikasso to Bamako takes about six hours. This ride took twelve. The bus broke down about half-way through the ride and we had to sit for hours on the side of the road until a new bus came along to pick us all up. The most exciting part of the night came when we hit the donkey. I was sitting in the very front of the bus and had been dozing for most of the ride, but just happened to wake up for the 30 seconds when it happened. There were three donkeys lined up on the road, with not enough space in between any of them for the bus to go through. Instead of trying to swerve or slow down, the driver just plowed through one of them. There was a big bang, but the bus didn’t even slow down after we hit it, so the only harm done was to the donkey!
Tubaniso was full of eating good food, watching lots of Grey’s Anatomy, and going to technical trainings, some of which were helpful, others not so much. Overall, I’m excited to go back to site and hopefully get started working on some projects. One Sunday during training, we had a Hash Run, consisting of most of the PCV’s in my stage, along with ex-Pats from all over, including South Africa, France and the US. Four “rabbits” started running about 15 minutes before the rest of us, and our goal was to follow paper trails that they left behind and try to catch them. The race was only 3.1 miles though, so of course no one caught them. The trail took us through some crazy thorns and bushes and by the time I was finished there were cuts all over my legs! It was fun though, and afterwards we got barbecue and cole slaw!
After training, a group of us went to another volunteer’s site for a formation on making improved shea butter. A lot of women in my village sell shea nuts and make shea butter, so actually helping them to sell the butter is a project I am interested in working on. To get to her site, we had to cross the Niger in a boat not much bigger than a canoe. There were two guys who rowed us across, using long sticks instead of oars. It took a while, but the view was beautiful. We walked about 3 km to get to her site after crossing the river, and the path was lined by tons of shea and mango trees. The formation was very helpful. It lasted for two full days. The first day, we actually made improved shea butter and the second day built two solar dryers for the nuts. Each day, the women in the village gathered together and played drums and had dance parties. We were more involved with the dance parties than the actual work with shea but that’s okay. We taught them some American dances, including the electric slide, Macarena, and Old MacDonald. The last night we were there, a group of local hunters played music and danced for us. A couple of times they danced with their guns, and not always pointing them toward the sky. I just sat and hoped they weren’t loaded!
After the shea training, I went to my friend Becky from home-stay’s site, along with Amanda, another friend from Banankoro. Her site is about 30 km from the Guinea border, and the road to get there was horrendous! We were crammed in a tiny bachée for a 4-hour drive on a dirt road with a gazillion pot holes. I was almost thrown out of my seat about twenty times and at one point the driver slammed on the brakes to avoid hitting a cow. It was really nice to see her site though, which is about half the size of Kourouma. We were only there for two nights, but got to tour her village and hang out with a lot of the people. Becky lives in a concession with her host family, which would be hard for lack of privacy but good for interaction and language. We washed clothes on Friday and were watched the entire time by her family! Everyone was super friendly though. The only transportation that leaves her site is at 5 am, so on Saturday morning we had to get up at 4:30 in time to catch it. It was already really cold, and then the bachée that we caught was missing one of the huge windows in the back, so for pretty much the entire ride, Amanda and I were huddled under a huge scarf that she had been smart enough to bring. We got back to Bamako from her site with no problems other than the cold, and the ride back to Sikasso took less than 6 hours and did not involve hitting any animals, making made up for the initial horrible ride. As always, hope you are all well!!! Miss you all!
Monday, January 28, 2008
Tuesday, January 1, 2008
Vaccinations, onions, and dancing
The last two weeks in Kourouma have been fine, and I’ll just try and think of any interesting incidents to share. Saturday morning was fun. After greeting at the CSCOM, I walked around town some, going to compounds I haven’t been to in a long time. At one point, a woman asked me if my hair was hair of a scarf. Kids are either terrified or fascinated by my hair, but it had never even occurred to me that people might not even think it is hair! I wonder who else thinks that I walk around every day in a light brown colored scarf! I stopped several times and sat with people, including two teachers from a nearby village, one of whom lives in Kourouma and two university students. Overall, I felt confident with my Bambara. It’s so much easier for me to speak and understand if I’m with only one or two other people. I get frustrated almost every day at my homologue’s house because there are always a lot of people there and they’re either speaking in Senofu or there are so many of them speaking fast Bambara that I’m lost and just sit there. I know I’m quiet in English too but at least I know when to laugh if someone makes a joke!
A few weeks ago there was a major vaccination campaign in Mali. One morning I went to greet at the CSCOM early and there was a line of women and children stretching from the hanger in the middle of the large compound to the doors leading out. The Doctor gave me some work to do, helping to give out Vitamin A pills and polio drops. We were there from 7:45 until 2 in the afternoon, with a steady stream of patients. It was a zoo and I thought it would never end, although I loved actually having work to do. And luckily we didn’t run out of any of the vaccines and had enough mosquito nets to give to everyone who came through. It was good to see such a good turnout.
This past Friday morning I decided to go to the onion fields again, and brought my camera. I had a really good time greeting and helping women, and taking a bunch of pictures. I helped my homologue’s friend, Mamine water all of her plants. We left together and I thought that eventually we’d separate but she followed me all the way to my house and plopped down on a chair. We sat for a while and she asked me what I was gonna make for lunch. It was noon and I just said I wasn’t sure yet. Well, we sat there for a few more minutes and I started to wonder if she wanted me to cook for her. Turns out so because she basically told me to get up and cook! I had no idea what to do. I asked her if she liked eggs and she said yes, so we had scrambled eggs and then she helped me make fried sweet potatoes as well. I’m still a little unsure whether she just wanted me to make her lunch, was maybe curious about what I eat, or whether she just wanted to hang out!
This past weekend has been a happenin’ place in Kourouma. It was the Doctor’s birthday, so his wife threw him a dance party both on Saturday and Sunday nights! Saturday afternoon I went to greet at their compound, where a bunch of women had gotten together to cook. I sat for a while, but before I could leave, the Doctor’s wife made me take a big bowl of porridge and another bowl of spaghetti. I felt so bad because I hadn’t helped cook, so another woman told me that my help would be to dance that night! So, at the dance I ended up dancing to about six or seven songs (they’re about ten minutes long each!) and had a really good time. I didn’t get home until 1 am! Sunday night wasn’t as exciting because I think everyone was tired. The most interesting part of the evening came when one of the musicians really got into the song and threw off her top (no bra underneath) and started dancing and even did a cartwheel!
Be sure and read my other new post below this one. I hope you all had wonderful holiday's!
A few weeks ago there was a major vaccination campaign in Mali. One morning I went to greet at the CSCOM early and there was a line of women and children stretching from the hanger in the middle of the large compound to the doors leading out. The Doctor gave me some work to do, helping to give out Vitamin A pills and polio drops. We were there from 7:45 until 2 in the afternoon, with a steady stream of patients. It was a zoo and I thought it would never end, although I loved actually having work to do. And luckily we didn’t run out of any of the vaccines and had enough mosquito nets to give to everyone who came through. It was good to see such a good turnout.
This past Friday morning I decided to go to the onion fields again, and brought my camera. I had a really good time greeting and helping women, and taking a bunch of pictures. I helped my homologue’s friend, Mamine water all of her plants. We left together and I thought that eventually we’d separate but she followed me all the way to my house and plopped down on a chair. We sat for a while and she asked me what I was gonna make for lunch. It was noon and I just said I wasn’t sure yet. Well, we sat there for a few more minutes and I started to wonder if she wanted me to cook for her. Turns out so because she basically told me to get up and cook! I had no idea what to do. I asked her if she liked eggs and she said yes, so we had scrambled eggs and then she helped me make fried sweet potatoes as well. I’m still a little unsure whether she just wanted me to make her lunch, was maybe curious about what I eat, or whether she just wanted to hang out!
This past weekend has been a happenin’ place in Kourouma. It was the Doctor’s birthday, so his wife threw him a dance party both on Saturday and Sunday nights! Saturday afternoon I went to greet at their compound, where a bunch of women had gotten together to cook. I sat for a while, but before I could leave, the Doctor’s wife made me take a big bowl of porridge and another bowl of spaghetti. I felt so bad because I hadn’t helped cook, so another woman told me that my help would be to dance that night! So, at the dance I ended up dancing to about six or seven songs (they’re about ten minutes long each!) and had a really good time. I didn’t get home until 1 am! Sunday night wasn’t as exciting because I think everyone was tired. The most interesting part of the evening came when one of the musicians really got into the song and threw off her top (no bra underneath) and started dancing and even did a cartwheel!
Be sure and read my other new post below this one. I hope you all had wonderful holiday's!
Holiday News
Happy New Year! I have a lot to write about since my last entry two weeks ago, so I’ll split my blogs into Holiday news and regular stories. Two major Holidays occurred in the past two weeks. One of course was Christmas. The other, Tabaski, or Seliba (the big Festival) in Bambara, was a huge deal in Kourouma. Tabaski commemorates the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice Isaac. As the idea of sacrifice is the backbone of Tabaski, those who can afford to sacrifice a sheep, goat or cow. For me it was one of those days when I wake up and have no clue what’s going on, what to say, wear or how to act. I put on a new fancy outfit (consisting of long pagne and huge embroidered top) which immediately gave my neighbors a laugh. For a while I stood on my porch and watched as tons of men, all dressed to the nine’s in flowing colorful boubous, and some women made their way to the mosque. Then I walked to my homologue’s house where they were doing basic chores in every-day clothes! I felt a bit ridiculous and went home to change. As it turned out, most people dress up in the late afternoon to walk around and greet. After the 9:00 prayer is the time for the sacrificial slaughtering. I was sitting on my porch where I can look out the door to my compound as people pass by. My neighbor’s son, Solo came out with one of their sheep, along with a big metal sheet which he laid on the ground. Then I heard him go back into his compound and heard the sound of a knife being sharpened. Next a random guy showed up and he, Solo, and my neighbor led the sheep out of my eyesight (fortunately). A few minutes later they were skinning and cutting up the dead sheep on the metal sheet. That afternoon they gave me a hunk of the raw meat which I cooked the next day. The day after that they brought me a whole bowl full of sauce and cooked sheep parts (I’m still not sure what but I’m thinking some liver and intestines). It was actually really tasty other than the texture! Luckily I’ve never been a picky eater, although I think it’s funny that I used to want to be a vegetarian because I thought it was cruel to kill animals for any reason! Anyway, I went to my homologue’s house for lunch, where sheep, rice, and a variety of vegetables were served. I hung out there for a while and she had music playing on the radio but it wasn’t too exciting. That afternoon, several groups of kids came by my house to offer blessings and in return I gave them candy. It’s the Malian form of Halloween. Instead of ‘Trick or Treat’, it’s ‘May God give you a good year’ and things like that. I had told Adia, my adorable three-year old neighbor, that I would take her picture on Seliba. She came over all dressed up with a new hairstyle, bright gold shoes, big gold earrings and dark eyeliner. I got my camera and her mother came running over to see what Adia could hold for the picture. I didn’t have any flowers so at first she suggested the mini globe that my parents sent me for Christmas! Then I found the mini Christmas tree and she agreed that that would be better. I just love how Malians like a good prop, no matter how tacky! That night was quiet, although after dinner at my homologue’s house, her kids kept me entertained by throwing their sheep’s head into the fire and then trying to saw it in half. The next night was a Seliba dance, which was basically the same as the dance after Ramadan.
Noel was the other major holiday and it was certainly the most different Christmas I’ve ever had. For starters, it felt absolutely nothing like Christmas, which was probably a good thing because it didn’t give me a chance to be too sad about not being in the US with my family! I spent it in Sikasso with about seven other gals. On Christmas Eve we baked up a storm. Three of us went to the Protestant Church for an 8 o’clock service. Well, we got there at about 8:05 and an hour and a half later it still hadn’t started! (Not too surprising though. We had been told during training that things in Mali often don’t get started until about two hours after they’re supposed to) We were tired though so decided to go on home. Christmas morning I slept in ‘til 8 (crazy!). We had scrambled eggs and pancakes for brunch and then walked over to a boutique where we sat outside, drank boxed wine, and had girl talk. That night we planned on having curried vegetables and twice-baked potatoes (my personal Holiday favorite). Another volunteer and I baked the potatoes once, made the filling, and had them ready to pop back in the oven when the gas tank ran out! Unfortunately it was too late to get a new one so we all watched ‘Home Alone’ and ate once-baked potatoes!
Christmas Eve and Christmas day were also filled with a major rat hunt! The volunteer whose house we stayed at had a huge rat living in her oven. It was spotted several times but always got away (we even brought two male neighbors over to try and catch it and they had no luck). Finally on Christmas day, a PCV and one of her friends were able to chase the rat into a room and then catch him in a bucket. They tossed him over the railing where he fell to his death. The neighbors were entertained though, because for the two days before the rat was caught, every so often they’d hear us Toubab’s screaming bloody murder whenever it was spotted!
Noel was the other major holiday and it was certainly the most different Christmas I’ve ever had. For starters, it felt absolutely nothing like Christmas, which was probably a good thing because it didn’t give me a chance to be too sad about not being in the US with my family! I spent it in Sikasso with about seven other gals. On Christmas Eve we baked up a storm. Three of us went to the Protestant Church for an 8 o’clock service. Well, we got there at about 8:05 and an hour and a half later it still hadn’t started! (Not too surprising though. We had been told during training that things in Mali often don’t get started until about two hours after they’re supposed to) We were tired though so decided to go on home. Christmas morning I slept in ‘til 8 (crazy!). We had scrambled eggs and pancakes for brunch and then walked over to a boutique where we sat outside, drank boxed wine, and had girl talk. That night we planned on having curried vegetables and twice-baked potatoes (my personal Holiday favorite). Another volunteer and I baked the potatoes once, made the filling, and had them ready to pop back in the oven when the gas tank ran out! Unfortunately it was too late to get a new one so we all watched ‘Home Alone’ and ate once-baked potatoes!
Christmas Eve and Christmas day were also filled with a major rat hunt! The volunteer whose house we stayed at had a huge rat living in her oven. It was spotted several times but always got away (we even brought two male neighbors over to try and catch it and they had no luck). Finally on Christmas day, a PCV and one of her friends were able to chase the rat into a room and then catch him in a bucket. They tossed him over the railing where he fell to his death. The neighbors were entertained though, because for the two days before the rat was caught, every so often they’d hear us Toubab’s screaming bloody murder whenever it was spotted!
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